If you’ve seen the recent automotive news media out of Japan, chances are it has mentioned police action or the decline of the country’s car scene.
While it may be true to some extent for Tokyo, Osaka tells a different story. During the one night I spent recently with some locals, I witnessed the vibrant heart of Kansai car culture.
Let’s start at CBC (Car Boys Club), a local garage run by Ikegami-san. CBC is a pure hobby, with Ikegami-san and his friends spending evenings and weekends on all things Honda.
Parked outside the workshop was Ikegami-san’s B16A-powered EF9 Civic SiR with JACCS livery, one of the my favorite Hondas bee this year’s Attack Tsukuba event. Ikegami-san clocked an impressive lap of 1’02.740, a super-impressive time for a standard-bodied, naturally aspirated car.
Inside, the shop mirrors many other Japanese garages we’ve explored: a wealth of parts, trinkets and machines – some valuable, some not – but all creating the unmistakable atmosphere of a JDM car workshop.
This trio of Civics are the projects of Ikegami-san and his friends. While you’d expect them to be built for the infamous Kanjo Loop, Ikegami-san focuses most of his energy on the race track. He’s a regular at Central Circuit, just an hour’s drive from Osaka – a favorite among Honda enthusiasts and even host to a one-make Honda race.
We left CBC and drove along the low roads of Osaka, Ikegami-san’s EF9 on the back of his truck, Honoka in her EK9 Civic Type R and another friend in a completely basic EG Civic.
Fueling up at a local gas station, the distant sounds of Hondas, Nissans and bosozoku filled the air. This was in stark contrast to Tokyo’s nighttime car culture, where a crackdown has pushed spirited driving to the city’s outskirts. Even the iconic weekend gatherings in Shibuya have become fewer and fewer.
The car styles of Kanto (Tokyo) and Kansai (Osaka) differ significantly. In Kansai there is a charming disregard for things like mufflers and front license plates. That’s what makes the car culture here so vibrant. Osaka’s custom car owners like to make noise and (allegedly) test driving laws without much fear of retaliation.
You could compare the differences with nightlife: in Tokyo you can go out for a nice meal with friends, while in Osaka people drink outside on the street. combine, six beers deep and sharing laughter. Both have their place, but sometimes you long for that raw sensation.
After a short drive we arrived at Higashi Osaka Parking Area, Osaka’s version of Daikoku PA. When we arrived, we were greeted on site by police, leaving little time for photos. However, these frames from some videos I took should give you a good idea of how alive it was.
With an estimated over 250 cars in attendance – from Kanjo Loop Civics to drift-spec AE86s and VIP Landships – it was the best parking show I’ve ever seen in Japan.
After watching the PA empty in a spectacularly loud manner, we headed into downtown Osaka. Amerikamura is a thriving hotspot for all types of street culture. During the day it’s buzzing with skateboarding and art, but at night it turns into a haven for car and bike enthusiasts.
This evening was no exception. Many cars who migrated from Higashi Osaka PA gathered here, including the founder of the legendary Kanjo Loop team ‘Not good racing’ in his Porsche 992 GT3.
On most weekend evenings you’ll find a mix of car and bike culture in Amerikamura. Ironically, it is close to a Koban (local police station), but the street gatherings rarely break up.
There was a steady stream of unique and interesting cars and motorcycles all night long, including this Type R combination of an NSX and a Civic.
In a landscape of increasing police intervention, Osaka offers a car culture experience that Tokyo cannot match. While the Japanese capital boasts some of the best tuning shops and car events in the world, its once thriving street culture is fading under stricter rules and regulations. My evening in Osaka reignited a passion for the Japanese car scene, which Tokyo struggles to maintain; Kansai has really captured my heart.
Alec Pender
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